feat: move kitty and neovim to Catppuccin Macchiato

These were deliberately left until last: wallpaper-derived colours in kitty's
ANSI slots were the original readability problem, since nothing in a wallpaper
guarantees color4 stays legible against color0. A hand-tuned palette is safe for
the opposite reason, so the move is onto Macchiato rather than back onto pywal.

current-theme.conf was a symlink into the wal cache and is now a real file.
wal.sh no longer recreates that symlink, which would have silently reverted the
theme on the next wallpaper change.

Neovim read the same pywal output via colorscheme pywal and now uses the
catppuccin/nvim plugin. Its airline theme was base16_dracula, matching nothing;
it is now base16, which derives from the active colorscheme.

Measured before committing: every ANSI slot clears 4.5:1 against its own
background in both themes except color0, which is the near-background slot in
both. color8, used by some colourschemes for comments, does drop from 3.83:1 to
2.38:1, but the Catppuccin neovim plugin sets its own comment colour rather than
using ANSI 8, confirmed on screen.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5 <noreply@anthropic.com>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01G6aeE37K4GHBsaM51yLTTq

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