assistant: Load no longer changes the preferred model

Load set the preference as well as swapping the model in, so loading a
model from the settings page for any reason made it the assistant's
model too: after loading Qwen there, the canvas kept Qwen instead of
bringing the preferred Gemma back. Load and Prefer are now separate
buttons: Load swaps a model in now and leaves the preference alone, and
Prefer only records which model the canvas loads when it opens.

The canvas header also showed a stale model name after a swap; it now
takes the model from the daemon's ctx event, which carries it from
desktop-assistant f9d4644 on.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5.5 <noreply@anthropic.com>

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